Baked potatoes with their skin, plenty of butter and, more importantly, no-mixer: the more simple the recipe, the puree, is the one who made the fame of Joel Robuchon, who died Monday. The head the most starred in the world has rehabilitated the famous recipe in the 80’s at a time when the mashed potatoes “was banned in the greatest restaurants, î he told in 2012 in the French daily, The New Republic. “There were only sachets of Muslin in private !”, he exclaimed.
Read also :The great chef Joël Robuchon is death
The New York Times is going to publish the recipe and the chef French export around the world. Born into a family of Poitiers, high butter, Joël Robuchon said he had the “nostalgia” of mashed potatoes as Proust for the madeleine.
“He realized early on that if you give people potatoes, potatoes and more potatoes, they will be eternally grateful, and satisfied for ever”, written in 1991, the author Patricia Wells in her book on the cuisine of Joël Robuchon.
For this famous mashed potatoes, “it takes a lot of muscular strength of the arm, it is a gesture which is practiced with excellence, a gesture graph,” said Monday, AFP cosimo de Cherisey, president of Gault and Millau.
The recipe Robuchon, in 10 steps, described by the chef himself in a show, “Cook like a great chef”, for 1 kg of potatoes:
1- “The first precaution of importance, is to select the potatoes of the same calibre and skin (…) for they pump less water.”
2 – they Are washed and baked after being covered with water “to two or three inches above”.
3 – salted with 10 grams of salt per liter of water.
4 – The potatoes are cooked for 25 minutes at a simmer. “With a knife, it pricks the potato, if it falls all alone is that it is baked!”.
5 – After you have peeled the potatoes still warm, is passed through a food mill. “Avoid, above all, the mixers” that would tend to make the puree sticky.
6 – To prevent the milk from “hold”, pour a drop of water in the bottom of the pan then pour 20 to 30 cl of whole milk brought to a rolling boil.
7- “We have been working with the pulp of potatoes in a saucepan at low heat, it gradually incorporating 250 g butter, cold, cut into pieces”.
8 – We add the milk to get the creaminess desired
9 – mixing always start at the tip and as soon as it becomes flexible enough, it ends with a whisk. It continues to stir in gradually the milk.
10-To have more fine and smooth, pass through a sieve.
“The best is often the most simple!”, concluded Robuchon.
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